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One of the masterpieces of historical Romanian art and architecture are Bucovina’s painted monasteries. Bucovina (translated “land covered by beech trees”) is located in the northern part of Moldavia - an area of natural beauty and simplicity of living. These great treasures are not hidden behind closed doors. The spectacular frescoes adorn the exterior walls (eaves to ground) where they have braved the elements for more than 500 years. Considering that these exterior paintings are only 0.25 millimeters in thickness, they remain well preserved.

The Byzantine style paintings (with a hint of mythology and local folk art) were for the faithful illiterate. The frescoes display biblical scenes, prayers, episodes of sacred hymns and themes such as The Last Judgment and The Ladder of St. John, all featuring rich and color detailed imagery of apostles, evangelists, philosophers, martyrs, angels and demons. The following monasteries are well known for their original way of depicting beliefs or events: Voronet for its magnificent Last Judgment, Sucevita illustrating the Ladder of Virtue; Humor amusingly depicting the devil as a woman; and Moldovita featuring a monumental scene of the siege of Constantinopole.

The interiors have been worn by incense and candle smoke, with a few in the process of preservation. The Romanian Orthodox custom of hanging embroidered scarves around the icons and from the chandeliers can be observed.

As the monasteries are still in use, please remember to be dressed appropriately (sometimes, tourists wearing shorts are given a skirt). Admission charges range from $1 to $3. Photography is permitted on the monastery grounds—there is a photo and video tax. Travelers might have the opportunity to hear the voices of nuns singing in response to the priest’s chanting. If you happen to hear a clacking sound, it is a nun striking a long wooden board (toaca) with small mallets announcing the start of services.

Most of the monasteries were built in the 15th and 16th centuries, during the times of Moldavian prince, Stefan cel Mare (Stephen the Great) (1457-1504) and his son, Petru Rares (1530-1538; 1541-1546). History documents that Stephen the Great ruled for 47 years and fought 47 battles, mainly against the Turks with other battles against the Tartars, Kossaks, Poles and Magyars. To praise God for allowing him to win, he erected 44 churches and monasteries. These monasteries were not decorated with exterior frescoes, but rather with colorful enameled ceramics placed around the steeples and below the cornices. Though small in size, the churches were solid and possessed a unique architectural design (octagonal cupolas raised on tall, stellar foundations). This was the foundation of the Moldavian art style, which would follow in the coming centuries. During Petru Rares’s time, exterior mural paintings flourished in Moldavia. Rares continued his work by establishing the foundations for numerous other famous monasteries. There are 48 monasteries in total, and some with fortified walls offering protection against invasions.

Seven of the painted monasteries have been included on the UNESCO World Heritage List: Arbore (1503), Humor (1530), Moldovita (1532), Patrauti (1487), Probota (1531), Suceava (1522), Voronet (1487).

Motoromania recommends a visit to the Agapia, Humor, Moldovita, Neamt, Sucevita, Varatec, and Voronet monasteries. In addition, purchases from local artisans selling their hand-embroidered linens (tablecloths to shirts), woven textiles, and painted eggs can be made and tucked in the luggage.

On the outskirts of the village of Agapia, the Agapia din Vale Monastery houses more than 400 nuns. Surrounded by walls and a gate tower concealing the 17th century church and a lovely garden, the monastery is a pleasure to visit. Should you arrive at prayer time, listen to the medley of pan pipes and bells.

Outside the village of Gura Humorului is the peaceful Humor Monastery known for its reddish brown color (as well as blues and greens). It was founded at the beginning of the 15th century. Unlike the other monasteries, it is surrounded by wooden walls and has no spire. It has a traditional Moldovan open porch, which was the first to be built in Bucovina. The atmosphere is serene and the church's interior is spectacular. The tower with its steep, narrow stairs provides an excellent vantage point from where to observe the beautiful grounds.

In the village of Moldovita is the Moldovita Monastery (1532). It is known for its yellow colors and unique fortified quadrangular shape with impressive towers and gates. Since it was founded by Petru Rares, it is only fitting that his original throne is housed in the monastery’s museum.

Outside of Targu Neamt is the Neamt Monastery. Started in the 14th century, it is the oldest and largest male monastery in Moldova with 70 monks and several seminar students. Neamt resembles a fortress with its high walls and one remaining tower. A large pavilion outside the monastery houses the blessed water, which can be bottled and taken home.

In picturesque Sucevita is the Sucevita Monastery. It boasts the greatest number of images in its impressive frescoes of reds and greens. It is one of the finest of the Bucovina monasteries with its stone towering fortified walls and towers. Oddly enough, the western wall is incomplete. Legend has it that the artist fell from the scaffolding and no other artist dared to complete it.

The last one to have been built in the late 16th century, Sucevita is credited to Ieremia Movila (one of the few Bucovina monasteries not to be built by Stefan cel Mare). But the real treasure is the hike up the hill behind the church’s graveyard to view the monastery and surrounding landscape.

The Varatec Monastery (1785) serves as residence and worship sanctuary to more than 600 nuns. The exterior resembles a villa, with the interior closed and reminiscent of a botanical garden.

Founded by Stephen the Great, the Voronet Monastery (1488) was built in three months and 21 days, then temporarily abandoned in the 18th century. Known as the Sistine Chapel of the East, its distinct blue hues (known as Voronet blue) and its Last Judgment scenes (covering an entire wall) are its main attractions. Be prepared to encounter significantly more tourists than at the other monasteries. The weather has erased much of the frescoes on the north-facing wall. Since 1991, it has been inhabited by nuns.

The spiritual as an art form

Sucevita

Agapia

Humor

Moldovita

Neamt

Varatec

Voronet

Painted Monasteries of Bucovina

Motorcycle Adventures for the 21st Century