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Baile Felix

E79

Road to Beius

Beius

E79

Road to Varfurile

Varfurile

Road to Brad

Tebea

Brad

Road to Deva

Hateg

Jiu Valley Road

Craiova

This road is another route slicing the country from north to south (albeit with a southeastern slant). The road is particularly enjoyable because it runs through some of the more scenic parts of Romania, namely the Western and Middle Carpathians.

The road starts in ORADEA, a large city on the Western side of Romania. Oradea has traditionally been the center of this region near the border with Hungary, historically referred to as Crisana. Navigating Oradea can be an adventure at times. The city provides public transportation in the form of busses and tramways. The tramway rail is embedded in the road and runs, more often than not, in the same lane as that intended for vehicles. On a motorcycle that can make for tricky maneuvering, especially in the rain—those rails can be unforgiving. So, aside from heavy traffic during the day, watch out for the tram rails.

As you leave Oradea, the road heads toward the well-known resort-town of Baile Felix. The resort is known for its thermal spas, frequented by people seeking relief from ailments since Roman times. Although slightly dated, the town is experiencing a surge of investment, particularly in real estate. From the town, E79 begins to climb through forests at higher altitudes. To your east, the road is flanked by the Padurea Craiului Mountains, offering you a beautiful view. The asphalt is of average quality with rough spots and even potholes, particularly in the spring.

The road is not a particularly fast ride, this side of a well-equipped dual-sport. But, the scenery is part of the reason you would not want to make it a fast ride. Rolling hills, green pastures, flocks of sheep and goats, all make up for an idyllic landscape. This is how you would expect Romania to present itself. Roughly 60 kilometers from Oradea, the road finds the market town of Beius. The town is a pleasant stop and provides access to the Meziad Cave. Discovered in 1859, the cave is known for its enormous stalactites.

As you move south, the road oscillates between lush forests seemingly engulfing the road at times, and wide-open vistas atop open plateaus. Approaching the town of Stei, the road is flanked on one side by the Codru-Moma Mountains and on the other by the Vladeasa Mountains. From Stei, you find access roads into the heart of the Western Carpathian Mountains—Highway 75 leading to Pestera Ursilor (Bears Cave), Arieseni (an amazing scenic road), and Cetatile Ponorului (Ponor Fortresses). In fact, Highway 75 crosses the mountains and provides a cut-through to Turda.

Back on E79, the road moves through Vascau and begins a particularly scenic climb into the Bihor Mountains. Here you will find sharp turns, a few hairpins and mostly tree cover for a good 10 kilometers, as the road climbs through the forest. Aside from the occasional wildlife, keep an eye out for those big trucks—they may surprise you coming around the blind corners. In another 10 kilometers, the road arrives in Varfurile. The area is pastoral in setting and feel, and as the road moves above the town, you may want to pull over and take in the sights. It is a place where having a tent may be handy, as it calls you to stay a while.

From Varfurile to Brad is a pleasant 38 kilometers on winding through roads with nice scenery. The town of Brad would not make it on any particular destination list, especially if you happen to be there on a rainy day. From there, E79 moves through the Metaliferi Mountains and the 30+ kilometers to Deva provide a really enjoyable experience. The curves are moving the road at a brisk and lively pace, keeping your attention while allowing glances here and there as you go through villages.

A few kilometers outside Deva, the road joins E68, and in a four-lane format you arrive in Deva. DEVA is a pleasant city, best known as the home of Romania’s top gymnastics club and training ground for the elite Olympic gymnastics team. The city is worth a stop for a visit to the ruins of Deva fortress built in the 13th century. There is a recently constructed cable car that provides easy access to the hilltop location—the expansive views of the city and the Mures Valley below are well worth the time and admission.

Leaving Deva, E79 progresses swiftly to Simeria, where on the east side of town, it splits from E68 to move south. The drive is easy and the road is fairly flat. Arriving into Calan, you cannot miss the depressing displays of a centrally planned communist economy. The road is lined on both sides with the ruins of what was no more than a decade ago a thriving, if overstaffed, industrial platform. Now, the town, which was built around the platform, can no longer sustain its inhabitants. On the other side of Calan, the road livens-up and provides a few enjoyable twists and turns as it approaches the majestic Retezat Mountains and the city of Hateg.

Conversely, there is an alternate route, and much more scenic at that, from Deva into Hateg. Just as you leave the outskirts of Deva, near the DHS Sporting Goods factory, there is a road headed south—Highway 68B—toward Hunedoara. This road provides more interest, particularly since Hunedoara is home to the Corvin Castle, one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Romania. The town belies its industrial past as well, but a visit to the castle is worth the time. Leading out of Hunedoara and into Hateg, the road is filled with tight twists, elevation changes and fantastic panoramas, which absolutely make this route worth riding. After all, you end up in the same place either way, and this way you save about seven kilometers.

HATEG is a pleasant town, set in a natural depression formed by three mountain ranges: picturesque Retezat, Poiana Rusca and Sureanu. From Hateg, there are a multitude of smaller roads leading to a treasure trove of attractions—2000-year old Roman ruins at Sarmizegetusa, 13-century church in Densus, Retezat National Park, and many more.

From here, E79 continues on a newly-repaved road toward Petrosani. The road is smooth, wide and fast in the early stages. As it approaches the mountains and begins climbing, it narrows and turns into a real twister. The curves are tighter, the valley steeper and the views become engaging. At times, you may forget you are riding and presume you are in a postcard. Within 20 kilometers the road brings you to Petrosani.

Petrosani and the surrounding area was once the epicenter of Romania’s mining industry. These mountains provided coal, iron ore and other metals that were the building blocks for the country’s industrial development. The towns around and including Petrosani were at the forefront of the communist regime’s economic agenda. Over the past decade, they proved to be overstaffed and underproductive. The free-market economy has rendered these places almost obsolete. As you ride through Petrosani, you cannot escape the symbols of its heyday—buildings, towers and monuments dedicated to mining and miners.

Past Petrosani, the road squeezes in between two sizeable mountain ranges, Valcan and Parang, following the Jiu River valley. The road is narrow, the curves particularly tight and the mountainsides really close to the road. Add to this the flow of heavy truck traffic and it makes for a real exciting (and potentially hazardous) route. The views, though, more than make up for it. The forests are dense and climb high on the slopes, the river below is fast and furious. If you ride through here in the summer, you are likely to catch a good show from the popular whitewater rafting in the area.

The road continues through Bumbesti-Jiu and makes its way into the city of Targu Jiu. For the art enthusiast, or even an interested observer, TARGU JIU is a definite stop no matter the weather. The city was home to international sculptor, Constantin Brancusi (1876-1957), considered by many the father of contemporary 20th century sculpture. He became internationally known after moving to Paris, where he studied with Auguste Rodin. He developed his own philosophy and style, and based on his works, such as Bird in Flight and Mademoiselle Pogany, he reached international acclaim. Aside from Paris, his works are currently displayed in the National Art Gallery in Washington, DC and the Met in NYC.

Targu Jiu hosts four of his distinctive pieces in two locations that are easy to find—the Central Park in the heart of downtown and in a park leading out of town, barely three to five kilometers away. He dedicated the four works in the memory of those who died in WW II (1937-8). In the Central Park are three works – Gate of the Kiss (Poarta Sarutului), Alley of Chairs (Aleea Scaunelor), Table of Silence (Masa Tacerii). Alone in the other park, the Endless Column (Coloana Fara Sfarsit) stands at almost 30 meters tall with its 15 steel beads. The Column is considered one of the planet’s top 100 art pieces. It was restored in 2000 for 4 million Euros.

From Targu Jiu, E79 continues further south along the Jiu River valley, past the town of Rovinari and into Filiasi. The 70-some kilometers are fairly pleasant, if a bit encumbered by truck traffic, unless the road is washed out. This can happen in early spring, when rains and floods lead to landslides that cover roads or completely wipe them out.

In Filiasi, the road joins E70 for its run into Craiova. The 36 kilometers are fast if somewhat dull. Arriving into CRAIOVA from this side is quite an experience. The road widens to four lanes and is flanked on the south side by kilometers of oil refineries and dilapidated industrial buildings, testament to a glorious communist past. For a little while, the scene is reminiscent of an apocalyptic movie set.

However, the city more than makes up for that image the closer you move toward the center of town. Craiova is a strong university center and its downtown is vibrant and bustling with traffic and new storefronts. During the first part of the 20th century, Craiova was a strong francophone city—should you have walked its streets, you would have been hard-pressed to figure out whether you were in France or elsewhere. Between the architecture and the seeming joie de vivre of its citizens, the town displays a character all its own. It is home to Craiova beer. It also boasts a beautiful art museum which houses a selection of Brancusi’s pieces.

In Craiova, E79 splits and moves toward the southwestern corner of Romania. The ride is fairly flat through wide plains. The only reason to ride this particular stretch would be to cross into Bulgaria. The town of Calafat is on the Danube and serves as the last point in Romania. Across the river, E79 continues into Bulgaria.

For a major road, E79 feels for the most part much smaller and more intimate (if you can refer to a road in those terms). Particularly for the portion Oradea-Deva and Hateg-Petrosani, the road is extremely scenic and affords many opportunities for side explorations. As part of a motorcycle tour of Romania, it is highly recommended.

Baile Felix

Motorcycle Adventures for the 21st Century