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Timisoara

Baile Herculane

Iron Gates Dam

Drobeta-Turnu Severin

Road to Craiova

Roads > E70

This road has an odd trajectory, seemingly spurred more by an arbitrary convention than by convenience. The road starts life in the town of Moravita, on the Romania-Serbia border. But very few riders are likely to ride that way into Romania. The section from the border to Timisoara is fairly straight, with good asphalt and few surprises.

Entering TIMISOARA is akin to any major city in Romania—the outskirts don’t look like much, but as you get closer to the center of town, you are rewarded with better sights. The city is best known for having sparked the 1989 Revolution that overthrew the communist government. Standing at the Piata Victoriei on a sunny day, it is difficult to imagine that more than 100,000 people and an army were there in December 1989. Timisoara is a bustling university town and a fantastic shopping venue. You could walk the downtown for hours strolling through shops and alleyways exploring the City. Or you could grab an ice cream or a coffee and watch people in one of several squares. Restaurants are also plentiful, running the gamut from fast-food to Greek to Chinese.

From the center of town, head eastward, toward the airport to find E70. The road is smooth and opens up to four lanes, lined by car dealerships, hotels, and a bevy of new construction. As you exit town, the road remains fairly wide and easy to ride. In 2006, this road is being overhauled—the lanes are widened and the road foundation strengthened.

About 20 kilometers from Timisoara, you will find the town of Recas, nationally known for its vineyards and wines. There is a wine shop downtown where a stop would be worth it, if you had a couple of minutes. The vineyards are on the north side of town—they are open to the public and you can find them by following the banner advertisements.

The next 40 kilometers are smooth and fairly straight with the landscape offering mainly wide open spaces. Entering LUGOJ, you immediately notice the town’s industrial past. The downtown reveals a more picturesque atmosphere. Lugoj is home to several Romanian musicians and composers. Lugoj is also the birthplace of Bela Lugosi (born 1882 as Bela Ferenc Blasko), the actor who immortalized the original Dracula character in the famous Hollywood film.

From Lugoj, E70 continues toward Caransebes. The landscape becomes more varied, with the Poiana Rusca Mountains to the east offering a change of pace. The road quality is smooth making for a fun ride through the fast sweepers and straight stretches. Caransebes is not particularly a destination in and of itself. The city is a gateway to secondary roads that lead up into the surrounding mountains, into truly beautiful areas.

The road moves farther south toward Orsova. The next 100 kilometers become considerably more engaging and enjoyable. The road is generally of good quality, with rough spots here and there. But the sights more than make up for it. To the west you will see the Semenic Mountains, followed by the Almajului Mountains near Baile Herculane. To the east, the road is flanked by Tarcului, Cernei and Mehedinti Mountains. As you approach Baile Herculane the landscape becomes almost dramatic—white cliffs jutting skyward from the forest. Depending on your schedule, Baile Herculane is worth a stop. From E70, take a left just past the train station.

BAILE HERCULANE is a mineral water spa and resort. It is evident that the town has seen better days. The town is nestled in the Cerna Valley with its natural springs and renowned sulfur, healing springs. Mt Domogled towers over the town, which credits its origins to the legend that Hercules bathed here after a battle and healed his wounds! In the 19th century, Herkulesbad (as it was known then) was frequented by Western European aristocrats and royalty. Today, it is an aging resort with numerous hotels in desperate need of repair and extensive renovations. Yet, its antique charm and sulfur smell still captivate you.

Back on E70, it is a quick 18 kilometers south to Orsova and your first encounter with the Danube. In Orsova, you have the choice of turning right onto Highway 57 toward Moldova Noua, and ride what could arguably be considered the Pacific Coast Highway of Romania (minus the Pacific, of course). It is one of the most scenic rides in the country. The road parallels the Danube for about 115 kilometers and offers some of the most breathtaking sights. Most of the way to Moldova Noua is made up of turn after turn filled with surprises—from the Cazanele Mari Gorges, to the Portile de Fier National Park, and the picturesque villages like Svinita. Early spring may pose riding problems, as the road often washes out from heavy rains and floods.

Even if you do not have the time for the amazing ride on 57, from Orsova, E70 offers beautiful views and great riding as it parallels the Danube into Drobeta-Turnu Severin. The road is pleasant, traversing several bridges and a short tunnel. Along this stretch, you can also observe the Portile de Fier (Iron Gates) dam, considered a communist engineering marvel. The dam was built with tremendous expense and human sacrifice to satisfy growing energy demands. The construction of the dam also led to the flooding of an inhabited island upstream—Ada-Kaleh (”fortress island”). The island had been a unique remnant of Turkish presence and culture. The island, benefiting from a Mediterranean microclimate and due to its location, had controlled the trade on the Danube for centuries.

Entering DROBETA-TURNU SEVERIN, E70 still continues along the river. If you take a detour from the road into the center of town, you can easily find access routes to the river and the town’s parks. Drobeta, as it is generally referred to, is named the “town of roses” for its beautiful parks. The town displays a clear link to its past—18th and 19th centuries architecture, ornate parks, and monuments.

From Drobeta, E70 moves away from the Danube and heads eastward. The road quality is good and the layout makes it a pretty fast ride. The landscape is made up of low hills and wide plains, providing an open horizon. There are roughly 65 kilometers into Filiasi, a small city that offers access northward, up the Jiu River valley on E79.

But E70 continues to Craiova. The 36 kilometers are fast if somewhat dull. Arriving into CRAIOVA from this side is quite an experience. The road widens to four lanes and is flanked on the south side by kilometers of oil refineries and dilapidated industrial buildings, testament to a glorious communist past. For a little while, the scene is reminiscent of an apocalyptic movie set.

However, the city more than makes up for that image the closer you move toward the center of town. Craiova is a strong university center and its downtown is vibrant and bustling with traffic and new storefronts. During the first part of the 20th century, Craiova was a strong francophone city—should you have walked its streets, you would have been hard-pressed to figure out whether you were in France or elsewhere. Between the architecture and the seeming joie de vivre of its citizens, the town displays a character all its own. It is home to Craiova beer. It also boasts a beautiful art museum which houses a selection of Brancusi’s pieces.

In Craiova E70 joins E574. The latter runs in a northwesterly direction through Pitesti, Brasov, Sfantu Gheorghe and into Bacau. Leaving town, the road is smooth and pleasant to ride. Being newer, the road is wider, with clear markings, making it a fun ride. When you add the nice sweepers thrown in on account of a changing landscape, this can provide enjoyment for any motorcyclist. A few kilometers before Slatina, the road meets up with Highway 64, a road that runs directly northward, up the Olt valley and back into the Carpathians.

Depending on your plans, taking 64 into Ramnicu Valcea opens a range of possibilities for more scenic riding. From Slatina, E70 runs toward Pitesti, home to Romania’s auto icon, the Dacia, and then from there, it joins the A1 motorway/freeway into the capital, Bucuresti. The road is good and the freeway is predictably fast. Watch out for radar—this road is a favorite revenue generator for law enforcement, with speed cameras mounted along its length.

If you arrive in the country by plane into Bucuresti, riding E70 or sections of it gives you access to several other areas of the country with great riding. But, aside from a few scenic stretches, the road would not make for a destination in and of itself. As part of a larger loop, it does provide a glimpse into the southern part of Romania.

Timisoara

Motorcycle Adventures for the 21st Century