Motorcycle Adventures for the 21st Century

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Arad

Arad

Road to Lipova

Lipova

E68

E68

E68

Deva

Deva

Sibiu

Sibiu

Brasov

Brasov

Brasov

Roads > E68

This road runs from near the western tip of Romania all the way to Brasov, practically slicing the country in half. Because of its layout and direction it is also one of the busiest roads in Romania. The road starts in Nadlac, the main land border crossing on the western side of the country. It is the main conduit for commercial traffic into Romania—from the Nadlac border, it is only two-and-a-half to three hours into Budapest and six-to-seven hours into Vienna.

From Nadlac to Arad, it is a fairly quick and straight 50 kilometers. As you approach Arad, you have the option of turning left and taking the E68 Loop, which by-passes the city altogether, or going straight into the city and following the signs from there. Either way you are not likely to get lost.

Historically, ARAD has been a gateway into Romania, and during the latter part of the 19th and early part of the 20th centuries it was known as “Little Vienna.” The city’s downtown still retains its architecture and boulevard which gave its nickname. The city’s attraction is the Mures River and the many parks lining its river walk. In fact, the river defines a good section of E68 as it moves eastward.

Leaving Arad, the road loosely follows the river through the plains. The landscape is open and wide, and the road is marked by long stretches with high-speed sweepers. As you approach Paulis, the Zarand Mountains are visible, and once you cross the railroad overpass, you will notice the geographical differences. The river carved a fairly narrow pathway between the Zarand Mountains and the Lipova Plateau. The road begins to follow the river’s meanderings on one side and the adjoining hills’ curves on the other. The next 110-120 kilometers can be a real treat. Given the high volume of truck traffic, this road can also mean a lot of passing. But, that’s what motorcycles are built for!

In the town of Lipova, there are a couple of attractions. One is the historical Soimos fortress, whose ruins are easily spotted from the road, and the other is the Maria Radna monastery. The town is also home to one of the few (barely) surviving authentic Turkish bazaars—just the buildings, not the markets themselves—dating from the time the Turks had possession of the area.

From Lipova, the road goes through a succession of small towns and villages, while providing great views of hillsides and shady forests. Of special note—because of its high traffic, this road is also home to the bane of motorcycle enjoyment, the police radar. Generally, the radar vehicles are stationary and posted at the entrance of towns. Other drivers will warn you by flashing their high beams, so paying attention to their warnings will likely help you avoid the traps.

Approaching Deva, the road widens to four lanes and is joined by E79. DEVA is a pleasant city, best known as the home of Romania’s top gymnastics club and training ground for the elite Olympic gymnastics team. The city is worth a stop for a visit to the ruins of Deva fortress built in the 13th century. There is a recently constructed cable car that provides easy access to the hilltop location—the expansive views of the city and the Mures valley below are well worth the time and admission.

From Deva, E68 continues along the Mures valley through the towns of Simeria and Orastie. The road loses the sharp meanderings it possessed before Deva. The views open and the ride tends to gain a quicker pace. As the road closes-in on Sebes, it says ‘goodbye’ to the river and moves toward the mountains.

Riding into Sebes, you realize that something is different. Aside from the landscape, the most striking aspect about the town is the architecture of its houses—they are narrower, with windows placed higher and tall gates. You have arrived in what was historically Saxon territory. The layout of the cities, the architecture of the old buildings and the feel of the places you go through for the remainder of E68 into Brasov reflect the historical Saxon presence.

Riding away from Sebes, the road combines high-speed sweepers with long stretches of straight asphalt, against the backdrop of Cindrel Mountains to the right. The view is wide but dramatic, with open vistas and scenic towns and villages. However, traffic keeps you from daydreaming for too long. Getting closer to Sibiu, in the town of Cristian, the road widens to two lanes with really generous shoulders, turning this section into a four-lane road.

SIBIU (Hermannstadt) has the honor of co-chairing as the European Cultural Capital in 2007, alongside Luxembourg. The old city is worth a visit—with its squares, Piata Mare, Piata Mica and Piata Huet, charming old buildings and churches as well as trendy boutiques, bookstores, and café terraces. There are plenty of cobblestone streets and alleyways to stroll that also provide great vantage points for people-watching.

Sibiu is at the confluence of several major highways, so navigating its streets can be a hassle at times. But following E68 should not pose a serious problem. Leaving Sibiu, you find yourself still riding on a four-laner for a little while. Arriving into Avrig the road is back to the familiar two-lane, yet by now you are likely too busy taking in the majesty of the Fagaras Mountains to your left to pay attention to the size of the road.

The Fagaras Mountains are the tallest in the entire Middle Carpathian range. They rise up from the Transylvanian Plateau with jagged edges, and majestic snow-capped peaks well into the summer. The highest point is the Moldoveanu peak, which stands at 2,545 meters. Riding E68 through this section is quite an experience, since the road parallels the mountains. The route is not particularly difficult, leaving enough time for gazing and taking in the sights.

Past Avrig, near the village of Carta, you will notice a road sign pointing to the village of Cartisoara and Balea Lac (Lake Balea). The road number is 7C. If you happen to be in the area with about three hours to spare, and you are there between end of June and September, you MUST take this road. It is the most exciting and challenging road in Romania. Any Romanian with a driver’s license can tell you about this road, by its name alone—the Transfagarasan. The road was built during the communist regime as a strategic route across the highest section of the Carpathians and it provides for the most incredible views and experience. For more details on this particular road, follow the Transfagarasan page.

Back on E68, the road follows the Fagaras Mountains into the town of Fagaras. About 30 kilometers later, it begins a pleasant and scenic climb to Codlea. The road here throws switchbacks and tight corners with quick elevation changes. All the while, it is evident that you are climbing, as the forests change to coniferous species. The air even smells different, as the road goes up into the Persani Mountains.

In Codlea you notice more of the, familiar by now, Saxon houses and architecture. You also begin to glimpse the signs of urban development from neighboring Brasov. From Codlea to Brasov is a mere 14 kilometers, on a wide, fast stretch of road.

By the time you reach BRASOV, assuming you made the whole trip in one day, you are ready for a hot shower, a great dinner, and a rest. The city is more than able to accommodate. Brasov has become known as “Little Prague” and is the second most visited Romanian destination. The town has preserved its medieval architecture well and Mount Tampa, looming over the city, provides spectacular views. The pleasant Piata Sfatului welcomes tourists with trendy cafes and hours of people-watching. Pedestrian-only Strada Republicii with its bakeries, terraces, and boutiques adds to the allure of the old blending with the modern.

Here is where adventurous E68 ends, but where a myriad of other exciting roads and destinations begin. Brasov is like a hub with spokes leading out in all directions. As for E68, no matter your travels through Romania, this one is worth taking, even if for only selected parts.

• Nadlac — Arad — Deva — Sebes — Sibiu — Brasov

Arad