This is one of the few major Romanian roads that starts in the middle of the country, namely in Cluj-Napoca. A city with a long history and an important university center, CLUJ-NAPOCA has a vibrant personality and energy with its trendy coffee shops, swanky bars and up-to-the-minute Euro fashion on the streets. Cluj is an ethnically diverse city with a large Hungarian population. In the 1970s, Ceausescu added Napoca to the city’s name to signify its Daco-Roman roots. However, most people refer to the city as Cluj.

Riding through town, aside from traffic, should not pose any problems. The center of town is easily found following the signs and all major directions leading out-of-town are well marked. What you may find odd, especially coming from the U.S., is the web of electrical wires suspended above most major city avenues—the town employs trolley busses as its main public transportation. The busses run on electricity and stay connected to the suspended wires.

The road, E576, leaves town toward Dej and Baia Mare. The early part of the road is pleasant if not particularly challenging. The landscape is typical for the Transylvanian Plateau, with gently rolling hills and small villages dotting the road. The ride through Gherla and into Dej is not inspiring, as both towns bear the signs of forced industrialization during the communist regime.

Based on the early impressions, the casual rider may be tempted to give up. The 50-some kilometers from Dej, through Beclean and into Bistrita do not contribute much to ameliorate the feeling. Patience is certainly rewarded as the road moves eastward toward the Eastern Carpathians.

Past Bistrita, E576 travels into the Bargau Mountains and for about 50 kilometers provides a pleasant ride. The road stays scenic into Vatra Dornei, a mineral spa and ski resort town. From Vatra Dornei, the road continues a spectacular ascent into the Suhard Mountains. In 2006, this section of the road is under construction, so you are likely to encounter entire sections of the road made up of gravel and dirt. Yet, the sights and the mountain scenery make up for the frustrations caused by gravel trucks and bulldozers. Depending on the time of the year, the 40 kilometers to Campulung Moldovenesc can take a while.

Upon arriving in Campulung Moldovenesc, the road’s quality improves considerably. The city is a 14th century logging town set in the Moldova Valley at 621 meters. It is also the western gateway to Bucovina, a well-known area of Romania, particularly for its painted monasteries. In fact, Highway 17A intersects E576 and is one of the most scenic roads in Romania with access to an area of amazing natural beauty and home to several famous monasteries, including Moldovita, Sucevita and Putna.

From Campulung Moldovenesc, E576 continues its scenic ride through the mountains. As you approach Gura Humorului, there are two attractions worth stopping for—one is the Voronet Monastery and the other is the Gura Humorului Monastery. Both of these monasteries are artistic, cultural and spiritual treasures. The town of Gura Humorului is pleasant, with a lively center and a good vibe.

From here, E576 crosses through another 32 kilometers of scenic landscape, dotted with forests, picturesque villages and plenty of great curves to keep the rider entertained. The road finishes its course in the city of Suceava.

At a first glance, SUCEAVA could be overlooked with its apartment buildings and strange smell emitting from its factories. In the 1980s, the factories supposedly put out 20 tons of cellulose and fiber-waste a day which caused respiratory and nervous disorders known as the Suceava Syndrome. Fortunately, filters have been installed to reduce the pollution levels. Yet, the town’s displays beautiful churches and a lively downtown, populated by restaurants and shops.

In the grand scheme of Romanian routes, this road gives the rider access to several distinct areas of the country. It is not, in and of itself, a destination. But as the saying goes, “it is not the destination that matters, but the journey.” In that spirit and in conjunction with the other great roads that it intersects, E576 would make for a nice itinerary.

Cluj-Napoca

Roads > E576

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