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As a route, DN67 is one of Romania’s hidden treasures. It runs east-west (or vice-versa), along the southern edge of the Middle Carpathians (a.k.a. Transylvanian Alps). The road quality is outstanding, the ride varied in terrain, with an abundance of turns and curves, and the historic and cultural attractions plentiful.

The road starts in the city of Targu Jiu. For the art enthusiast, or even an interested observer, TARGU JIU is a definite stop no matter the weather. The city was home to international sculptor, Constantin Brancusi (1876-1957), considered by many the father of contemporary 20th century sculpture. He became internationally known after moving to Paris, where he studied with Auguste Rodin. He developed his own philosophy and style, and based on his works, such as Bird in Flight and Mademoiselle Pogany, he reached international acclaim. Aside from Paris, his works are currently displayed in the National Art Gallery in Washington, DC and the Met in NYC.

Targu Jiu hosts four of his distinctive pieces in two places easy to find—the Central Park in the heart of downtown and in a park leading out of town, barely three to five kilometers away. He dedicated the four works in the memory of those who died in WW II (1937-8). In the Central Park are three works – Gate of the Kiss (Poarta Sarutului), Alley of Chairs (Aleea Scaunelor), Table of Silence (Masa Tacerii). Alone in the other park, on DN67 toward Ramnicu Valcea, the Endless Column (Coloana Fara Sfarsit) stands at almost 30 meters tall with its 15 steel beads. The Column is considered one of the planet’s top 100 art pieces. It was restored in 2000 for $4 million Euros.

The first 35 kilometers are pleasant—the road moves smoothly, in an amiable rhythm, offering small towns and villages with names such as Scoarta, Colibasi, Bengesti, Balcesti. Once you pass Balcesti, but before making it into Milostea, you will see signs for Polovragi and the Polovragi Monastery and Cave. The small detour is worth the time. The area, overshadowed by the Capatanii Mountains is home to the Nedeia, a great old fashioned fair. The Polovragi monastery was built in 1470, and reconstructed in 1647 by Constantin Brancoveanu, one of Wallachia’s more enlightened rulers. The church displays wonderful frescoes, dating to 1736. Right behind the monastery, you will find the Polovragi Cave, famous for the stalactites to be found in the “Candlesticks Gallery.” The road to the monastery is paved, if a bit rough, while the short jaunt to the cave is not (actually it is quite rocky and harsh).

On a side note, there is another well-known cave west of Polovragi, the Women’s Cave (Pestera Muierilor). The cave has remarkable stone formations inside. It is known to have been inhabited based on the skeletons of mainly women and children found there, dating to prehistoric times. To reach the cave from Polovragi, take the road headed west toward Baia de Fier (about 200 yards from the monastery) for about seven kilometers. In Baia de Fier, veer right, following the sign for the Pestera Muierilor for another 3 kilometers.

But, back on DN67, from Polovragi, the road continues its charming meandering. The towns and villages you cross on this road have a character all their own, with distinct architecture and a pleasant ambiance. The road quality is good, and the layout allows for plenty of motorcycling enjoyment. About 20 kilometers later you arrive in Horezu. A town rich in orchards (apple and plum), Horezu is best known for two attractions: its pottery and the Horezu Monastery.

The traditional Horezu pottery, and the plates in particular, feature the rooster in earthy colors and tones, along with geometrical patterns. In June, the town hosts the Cocosul de Horezu (Horezu Rooster) pottery fair, drawing a wide crowd of locals and tourists. You will find the plates and varied other products in stores and shops along the road.

The Horezu Monastery is another must-see. Built between 1691 and 1697, the monastery is the best example of the Brancoveanu architectural style (the name derives from Constantin Brancoveanu who ruled Wallachia in the 17th century). The monastery is currently on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. Entering the impeccably kept monastery grounds through the carved pear wood doors and ten-pillared porch way, the focal point was the Great Church built in 1693. Indeed, the Western and Oriental architectural style of Brancoveanu can be witnessed here. The country’s most prestigious fresco painting school was here in the 17th and 18th centuries. Currently, the marvelous frescoes of the church are in the process of being restored.

From Horezu, the road continues eastward. As you arrive in the village of Costesti, you have the option of experiencing Romania’s narrowest gorges—the Bistrita Gorges—and another distinct monastery built in the Brancoveanu style—Bistrita Monastery (1856). From DN67, there’s a road heading north that takes you for about five to eight kilometers to the monastery (just follow the posted sign).

The monastery houses the first book printed in Wallachia, dating to 1508. And until the early 1980s, the monastery was home to one of the country’s largest schools for handicapped children (currently housed in adjacent buildings nearby). The monastery is located in a dramatic setting, with looming rock formations on its northern edge.

The rock formations visible behind the monastery constitute the country’s narrowest gorges. The road is dirt and gravel, and unless muddy, comfortably navigable. As you move into the Bistrita Gorges, your horizon closes completely, the road becomes one lane and you are surrounded by sheer rock face. It is quite an amazing experience, but not for the faint of heart or the inexperienced rider. The road continues for many more kilometers into the mountains through dense woods. Unless you have a properly setup dual-sport or, better yet, an off-road motorcycle, this may prove quite challenging.

Retracing your steps back to Costesti, take DN67 eastward toward Ramnicu Valcea. The road leading out of town climbs precipitously through a series of switchbacks and hairpin curves, revealing a lush green panorama. With great asphalt, this makes for a highly rewarding ride. The remaining 30 kilometers into Ramnicu Valcea roll quickly and enjoyably.

Ramnicu Valcea is an active industrial town at the foot of the Carpathians. The town is home to several interesting churches and an open-air museum. It is also at the crossroads of several main traffic arteries. For a truly dramatic ride, go north on E81 toward Sibiu—the Olt River carved its way into the highest mountain ranges of the Carpathians. From here, E81 also dashes south for 59 kilometers to Pitesti, home to Romania’s auto icon, the Dacia, and then from there, it joins the A1 motorway/freeway into the capital, Bucuresti.

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