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Highway 57 begins, technically, farther northwest, in the border town of Moravita. But the 50 kilometers into Oravita are not particularly scenic, and unlikely to be ridden by most bikers. Oravita is an old town, and many of its buildings stand witness to that. The streets are narrow, bisected by even narrower alleyways, and the houses are built almost onto the road. Because of this fact, every street sound is highly amplified—riding a well setup V-twin could provide quite the entertainment.

From Oravita, DN57 runs through pleasant countryside, defined by rolling hills, an open horizon, scenic vistas and a good road. The curves are wide and fast, and the asphalt is good, if a bit loud. The ride descends into the small town of Naldas, an open border crossing into Serbia. From Naldas, another 20 kilometers of twisting curves await you as you approach the Danube.

You catch the first glimpse of the mighty river near Poiejena, about 8-10 kilometers north of Moldova Noua. Here, the river is wide and impressive—it looks like a lake. The sight offers a preview of the next 120 unforgettable kilometers.

Riding into Moldova Noua, you find the decaying remnants of a declining mining town. The town was built on the eastern edge of Moldova Veche, an old port, largely inhabited by Serbs. The port was developed during communism for the copper mines in the mountains to the north. The location would be a good place to fill-up on gasoline, because there is not much for the next 100-plus kilometers.

As you ride Highway 57 from Moldova Noua, the road hugs the river to its right and the steep hills to its left. The farther east you ride, the steeper the ridges. The road meanders and roams according to the twists of the Danube. The mountainsides are lush with vegetation and forests, and the views energize every ounce of your body. Motorcycling was truly meant for this!

The few villages you cross on this road are mainly inhabited by ethnic Serbs. The town of Berzasca sits at the confluence of the Berzasca River with the Danube. It is not much to the eye, but people are friendly and wave as you ride by. From here, the road loops around the Almajului Mountains, continuing to follow the snaking of the Danube.

Depending on the time of year, this road may be under construction. Particularly during late winter and early spring, the river swells from the rains and floods the road and the adjacent areas. April and early May can be months of rebuilding. You may run into areas of road with just dirt or gravel. Given the magnificent sights surrounding you, the ride will likely compensate for the road.

Toward the southern edge of the loop is the village of Svinita, a pleasant rural settlement with great views across the river. The eastern edge of town harbors the ruins of the Trikule fortress. Its two remaining towers watch over the river, immovable and silent since ancient times.

For the next 55 kilometers the Danube narrows and gets pinched by the Almajului Mountains to the north and the Miroc Mountains to the south. The squeeze becomes more evident as you approach the village of Dubova, and the cliffs gain tremendously in verticality and sheer presence. This area is well known in Romania as the Cazan Gorges (Cazanele Dunarii). The road moves from the Cazanele Mari (Large Gorges) to the Cazanele Mici (Small Gorges), and as it does it narrows considerably. The rock wall drops 600 meters to the water’s edge. In sections, the opposite shore, on the Serbian side, feels almost close enough to touch. The road here goes back to ancient times, when Romans suspended planks across beams stuck into the rock to create an access route.

while you turn your head left and right, up and down, and then left and right again, you must remind yourself that you are riding a motorcycle. The scenery here competes with your attention to the bike. And the road is not easy—the curves follow in close sequence, some tight, others tighter still, with only short stretches of straight reprieves. Your trip so far was definitely worth the effort.

As you continue riding toward Orsova, DN57 continues to provide surprises. At a river crossing past Dubova, you will notice a large figure carved in the rocky side of hill to your left. It is the face of Decebal, an acclaimed king of the Dacian tribes who inhabited a large portion of Romania before Roman conquest. He ruled in the years between 88-105 B.C., and sustained battles with two famous Roman emperors—Domitian and Trajan.

From here, the ride into Orsova is short and quick. The last few kilometers, the road leaves the river and moves inland, only to rejoin it in town. Orsova is a settlement dating back before Roman emperor Trajan built a bridge nearby to cross over 100,000 troops into Dacia. In the 19th century, the town was also a border crossing from Wallachia into Hungarian-ruled Banat. The town is fairly pleasant, but with no particular attractions.

In Orsova, DN57 ends its adventurous flirting with the Danube. Here, you find E70, a major road that gives you the option of heading north to Baile Herculane and beyond, or moving south through Drobeta-Turnu Severin and into Wallachia. The road along the Danube is an absolute must, even if you take the route the opposite way and start in Orsova.

DN57

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DN57

Danube Gorges

DN57

Trikule fortress

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