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This road practically crosses the Eastern Carpathian mountain range from east to west. It is a scenic and, at times, unpredictable route, but one worth riding. The road begins in Piatra Neamt (German Rock), one of the oldest settlements in Romania, dating back to the Neolithic and the Bronze Age. The town was also recorded in Roman documents and during the 15th century it served as a princely court under Stefan cel Mare (Stephen the Great).

While being nestled in a valley between the Petricica, Cernegura and Cozla Mountains and offering options for outdoors activities, the town is not a tourist attraction. From here, DN15 heads west into the Gosmanu Mountains. The ride is initially fairly flat and characterized by straight stretches and high-speed sweepers. As it approaches the town of Bicaz, however, the road begins to climb and take on a more twisty nature.

The first highlight of this road comes in the form of the Izvorul Muntelui Lake. The lake, also known as Bicaz Lake, is a sizeable body of water, formed by a dam at its southern tip. The dam was built during the 1950s to provide electricity. The road runs the whole length of the lake on its eastern shore.

The ride is scenic and inspiring. The majestic Ceahlau Massif guards the western part of the lake. The mountain range offers craggy peaks and pillar-shaped forms, clothed in beech, fir and spruce. The area is home to some unique wildlife—chamois, lynx, bears, boars and the Carpathian stag. The peaks’ reflection in the waters of the lake below makes for an almost poetic landscape. In fact, the mountains played a key role in folklore, religion and Romanian literature—the Dacians who inhabited these parts before Roman conquest, believed that these mountains were home to their supreme god, Zamolxis.

The ride around the lake lasts about 45 kilometers. On the north side of the lake, the road veers left and continues in a western direction. This section is just as scenic, as it continues its exploration of the Ceahlau Mountains through the northern pass. The road follows the Bistricioara River, which gives a winding character to the road.

The road demands a rider’s full attention. While generally of average quality, the road has plenty of rough spots to surprise the unaware biker. As it crosses this section of the Carpathians, the elevation changes, the hairpins and the heavy logging trucks give plenty reasons to enjoy this road responsibly.

As you approach Borsec, the road begins to climb toward the 1112-meter-high Borsec Pass. Borsec is a well-known source of mineral water as well as an alpine spa resort. Here, the forests are abundant and green, and along with lower temperatures, you can also take a fresher breath of air.

The entertaining mountain ride continues through the high pass and into Toplita. From here, the road joins one of Romania’s longest rivers, the Mures, and follows its wild meanderings for the next 70 kilometers. The ride is beautiful, with sharp turns and long descents. The road moves down the western side of the Carpathians and squeezes between the Calimani Mountains to the north and the Gurghiu Mountains to the South. The views are fantastic—soft forests covering the landscape as far as the eye can see, rural settlements along the river filled with small gardens and rows of haystacks, and a road that twists and turns as if to a certain rhythm all its own.

As you approach Reghin, the landscape softens, and the horizon widens. Reghin is an industrial town, best known for its successful violin factory. The factory owes its success to the availability of very grainy curly sycamore in the adjacent Gurghiu valley.

From Reghin, DN15 has another 20 kilometers into Targu Mures where it joins E60 for its remaining ride into Turda. TARGU MURES (Marasvasarhely) developed as a cultural and academic center in the 14th century. It remains a vibrant city with nationally renowned medical and theater schools. Lined with Secession-style buildings, downtown Targu Mures can be a pleasant stop. The early 20th century Palace of Culture is eye catching with its steeple roofs, tiled with colorful geometric patterns—perhaps not quite coincidentally, since the city boasts father and son mathematicians, Farkas and Janos Bolyai, revolutionaries of Euclidean geometry. The Palace houses the history and art museums, as well as the stained glass window museum. There is also a concert hall boasting an organ with over 4500 pipes!

From Targu Mures, the road goes west towards Turda, alongside E60 for about 60 kilometers. The road is pleasant and quick as you cross the heart of the Transylvanian Plateau through the towns of Ludus and Campia Turzii.

This road is worth a ride if your plans accommodate it. The conditions can be unpredictable at times, but the views of the mountains, the rivers, the lake and the villages you ride through more than make up for it. And therein lies the adventure.

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DN15

Motorcycle Adventures for the 21st Century