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This road begins about 20 kilometers north of Brasov, in the village of Chichis. The road quality is above average for a Romanian road, although rough spots persist here and there. The views are pleasant as you ride through villages and make your way toward Sfantu Gheorghe (Saint George). The ride through town is quick and uninspiring—the town was mainly an industrial outpost during communism.

From Sfantu Gheorghe the road becomes more scenic as it hugs the upper Olt River valley. The side views are eye-catching, courtesy of the Baraolt Mountains to the west and the Bodoc Mountains to the east. You will find straight stretches to let your bike run freely, interrupted by high-speed S-curves and tight left- and right-handers.

The scenery changes from low-lying hills to pine forests and mountain roads as you approach Baile Tusnad. The town is a bathing resort nestled amidst larch and fir woods, and offers lodging and access to the Sf. Ana Lake. The resort is also a gateway into the Harghita Mountains, a popular hiking destination.

From Baile Tusnad, the road runs for 19 kilometers to Miercurea Ciuc. The views here are spacious and open. The Harghita Mountains flank your west side and give the scenery a remarkable note. The closer you get to Miercurea Ciuc, the more pronounced the Ciuc Mountains rise from the plateau to your east.

MIERCUREA CIUC has the reputation of being the coldest city in Romania. It is an industrial town built around a 17th century citadel, best-known for its beer—Ciuc (pronounced ‘chook’). It is also the capital of Szekely Land, an area in the central part of Transylvania with a strong ethnic Hungarian presence. The city does not present much architectural interest, as it was extensively rebuilt during the communist regime with blocky concrete edifices, highlighted by equally aesthetic modern churches.

Highway 12 continues north of the city, along the Olt River. The road follows the Harghita Mountains for about 30 kilometers into Sandominic, where it takes a more attractive turn into the Giurgeu Mountains. These mountains are the starting point for Romania’s two largest rivers—Olt and Mures.

Legend has it that the two rivers were once the sons of a local king who disappeared in battle. Each son lived in a tower—Mures lived in the western tower, while Olt lived in the eastern tower. The legend states that they were both handsome, but completely different in their character and demeanor. So, when they left the castle to look for their father, they disagreed as to the direction in which they should go. According to their towers and their character, each took his own way—Mures went westward while Olt eastward. Accordingly, Mures, who was a deeper, calmer person, went a slower, more meandered way, while Olt, who was an impetuous and quick man, dashed on a rocky, choppy way. The legend closes with the story of the men’s mother, who sad at their lack of cooperation, cried a long time, turning the two men into long rivers.

The road moves into Gheorgheni, a pleasant but uninspiring town nestled between the Gurghiului and Giurgeului Mountains. From here, Highway 12 has another 36 kilometers left as it rolls northward into Toplita. Gheorgheni is the jump-off point for the rocky Bicaz Gorges (on the DN12C road) and the Lacul Rosu (Red Lake) recreation area.

However, for most motorcyclists, the stop in Gheorgheni opens up DN12C eastward or DN13B westward—two roads with excellent views, attractions and further destination. As an alternate route, you can arrive into Gheorgheni from Miercurea Ciuc on a different and more scenic, if longer, route—taking DN13A to Odorheiu Secuiesc and into Praid, then finally swinging right onto DN13B into Gheorgheni.

Road to Sf. Gheorghe

Roads > DN12

Sf. Gheorghe

Road to Tusnad

Tusnad

DN12

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